TALK THE TALK

You already walk the walk. Now it's time to establish a consistent and professional approach when describing your daily craft. This glossary will enhance your vocabulary and overall expertise through a comprehensive A-Z list of barbering terminology.

TALK THE TALK

You already walk the walk. Now it's time to establish a consistent and professional approach when describing your daily craft. This glossary will enhance your vocabulary and overall expertise through a comprehensive A-Z list of barbering terminology.

AFRO

NATURALLY SUPER TEXTURED HAIR – PERFECT SHAPE CREATION.

Shaping Afro-Carribean and other textured hair types require multiple techniques. Balance is important as well as understanding of the weight and density of the hair.

 

BLURRY FADE

EXPERTS USE TWO DIFFERENT CLIPPER BLADES IN ORDER TO CREATE A SOFT AND SUBTLE FADE.

#nofilter: this is a technique that was inspired by the heavy use of filters on Facebook and Instagram. In order to achieve a blurry, filtered effect, skilled barbers developed this specific art by using two different clipper tools to create a blurred look within a Fade. The key is to use cutting blades that vary in cutting angle and also size of blade. The deviation creates the seamless blend.

 

BUZZCUT

DIY-INSPIRED WAY OF CREATING A HAIRCUT USING CLIPPERS.

Inspired by the renaissance of clipper created hairstyles and the desire to create them at home. A strong fashion statement. Expert Tip: Create a well-balanced foundation. Keep the cut shorter at the sides and slightly longer on top. Keep the side panels above the temple area. Use a 90° elevation to compliment the bone structure and keep the cut masculine. Use a professional clipper or trimmer to shape the contouring of the head. It may be inspired by DIY, but should be delivered by a pro.

 

 

CLIPPER

ELECTRIC TOOL TO PERFORM MOST MODERN BARBERING LOOKS. ALLOWS VARIABLE LENGTHS AND BLADE SETTINGS FOR INDIVIDUAL HAIR CUTTING.

A staple tool in every barber’s toolkit. First developed by Leo Wahl in 1920, there is now a huge choice of Clippers available on the market. Your personal taste and handling preferences will influence the clippers you choose. Whether a simple solution or highly specialized, cable or no cable, metal or leather, the choice is down to you.

 

Definition

Many classic grooming and barber styles rely heavily on a strong definition of lines and contours in their design. For instance, classic haircuts with a tapered fade create definition around the nape area for a sharp finish. 

 

Effortless parting

Whilst there is a trend to produce a very strong parting within a hairstyle, lately the ‘effortless parting’ is on the rise.

This technique ensures the person wearing the cut doesn´t have to commit to one parting and can let their hair flow freely from side to side.

 

FADE

GRADUATION GOING FROM ZERO TO ‘HERO’. A MANDATORY TECHNIQUE IN THE MODERN GROOMING WORLD.

The key to a fade is the seamlessly graduated weightline that is set at a bespoke height. The fade has many variations and is a foundation technique to have in your repertoire. When mastered it can be applied to Low Fades, High Fades, Skin Fades, Razor Fades (using a blade to create sharpness) and Curly Fades. The weightline can follow the shape of the head or be horizontally shaped. Master the fade and you’ll become an expert in precision cuts.

 

FOCAL POINT

CREATE A POINT OF FOCUS IN A CLIENT’S HAIRCUT, AN INDIVIDUAL BESPOKE DETAILING THAT CATCHES THE EYE

Strive to create an eye catching finish for your client. Accentuate the perimeter, add extra detail to the beard, brows or back of the head – create a special area of attention. Use your smartphone to review through the lens, zooming in and out to find the focal point.

 

GRADUATION

KEY TO ALL FADES AND TAPERS THIS IS A VERY PRECISE CUTTING TECHNIQUE TO CREATE VOLUME.

The key technique to create well-groomed haircuts based on precision, discipline and attitude. Graduation in this case is used to create a transition from short hair in the perimeter, slowly building up volume and length working upwards. The ultimate technique to master to become a hero of your craftmanship. Precision and a structured approach will help to create results that leave clients in awe.

 

HORSESHOE SECTION

A LINE REACHING FROM RECESSION TO RECESSION ON THE WIDEST PART OF THE HEAD.

The right position for a horseshoe section depends on the bone structure, texture and density of the hair and head. This section is commonly used in today’s grooming. Usually sitting at the widest part of the head, resembling the u-shape of a horseshoe, the area where a hat sits naturally on the head's width and circumference

 

Ivy League

Inspired by Ivy League University attendees, this haircut originated in the United States.

It’s a type of crew cut where the hair at the front of the head is long enough to style with a side part. The crown and sides are cut short. 

 

 

Jheri Curl

Another American classic is the Jheri Curl; a permanent wave hairstyle that was popular among African Americans during the 80s and early 90s. This hairstyle was invented by the hairdresser Jheri Redding and gives the wearer a glossy, loosely curled look.

 

 

Kit Essentials

Alongside STMNT Grooming Goods, every barber needs their kit essentials

A great set of clippers with various guards is key; complemented with different width combs and good quality scissors, as some styles will require scissor over comb work.

 

LINE-UP

PRECISE WAY OF FINISHING THE HAIRLINE, FIRST USING A TRIMMER AND THEN A BLADE TO CREATE THE ULTIMATE EDGE.

Sharp edges and a clear line-up showcase the level of artisan craftsmanship and quality of work. Balance and sharpness around the edges underline this distinguished 2-dimensional geometry. Expert Tip: Add a spritz of STMNT Hairspray to the perimeter, then rub a little talcum powder into the palms of your hands, dip the trimmer into it before edging those sharp outlines. The white powder adds extra contrast. This is how you create the sharpest outlines imaginable.

 

LONG HAIR

IN THE MODERN GROOMING WORLD IT’S NOT ALL ABOUT FADES. TODAY A BARBER NEEDS THE FULL REPERTOIRE OF TECHNIQUES TO CREATE MASCULINE STYLES EVEN ON LONGER HAIR.

Knowing how to cut, style and treat longer hair helps in many ways. Think about longer beards. Even the basic blow-drying skills can be perfected while working with long hair. Expert Tip: A square layering technique is ideal to achieve a modern contemporary long hair statement.

 

Mullet

Known as the “business in the front, party in the back” hairstyle, the mullet has been worn by an array of artists. In recent years, it has made a comeback. Today, classic barbering styles work to combine the mullet with a side fade.

 

 

NU SKOOL

THE ULTIMATE FUSION OF BARBERING AND HAIRDRESSING – THE DRIVER BEHIND STMNT

Describing the evolution of barbering. In Nu Skool the craft and art of hairdressing is blended with traditional cuts from the barbershops. Mixing classic styles with advanced cutting to cater for the modern grooming customer. Looks are created using all sorts of tools and products, with an understanding of hairdressing that delivers results to truly make a statement.

 

OLD SCHOOL

THE DEFINITION OF Classic barbering techniques inspired by trends from the 1920's through to the 1950's

Back when a barbershop was the community hub in town. Shapes and forms inspired by the 1920s to the 1950s, when haircuts distinguished income or status. A banker had a different haircut to a worker – the higher the status the longer the sides, they could afford to see their barber every week for a trim and shave. Today, Old School is simply down to fashion – wearing a three-piece suit with a razor fade is absolutely en vogue.

 

 

 

PARTING

THE LINE ON THE HEAD MADE BY DIVIDING THE HAIR WITH A COMB.

Parting is a basic skill to master, a solid sectioning pattern is key to pulling off a technical, statement haircut. Traditionally combed in for a slick back look or a comb over finish. In recent years, it’s become popular to create a Focal Point by creating a shaved parting. Partings vary in length, angle and width. Always keep it precise.

 

Quiff

The quiff was originally a reaction to the strict short haircuts for men popularized during the war.

It’s a hairstyle that combines the 1950s pompadour, the 1950s flattop, and sometimes the mohawk. 

 

 

RAZOR CUT

THE RAZOR IS A UNIQUE STYLING TOOL, THAT CAN BE USED IN ADDITION TO THE TRADITIONAL SCISSOR CUT

Razor cuts are all about creating a lighter, wispier look. It is all about creating very light sections of hair that will practically float. This creates a very rock n’ roll type of look that gives off the impression of effortless cool.

 

Slickback

A grooming method that has become a classic – it’s not a haircut in itself but a way to style hair.

A strong pomade is required to keep the hair back and away from the face, but this look can be styled regardless of the length of the hair.

 

Trim

Whilst a trim is something known to hairdressers, a trim in barbering terms can include a side fade renewal.

Hairstyles that start with a skin fade can grow very fast. On other haircuts, like the pompadour, it’s only the top that gets trimmed on a regular basis. 

 

Undercut

This haircut has been popular since the 1910s and is still gaining popularity now.

The look is famous for its strong disconnection between a significantly longer top and very short sides, with no fade whatsoever. 

 

V-neck

This term refers to a specific shape cut around the nape of the hair – the natural or square contours of the hairline are replaced with a V shape. This style is sometimes combined with the Ivy League haircut.

 

Weight Line

Like the name implies, this is the area in a cut that holds the most weight.

Multiple layers can converge in this area, or if there are no layers present, the hair is cut to fall on top of itself; creating weight in that particular area. In classic barbering sometimes the weight line remains on the top of the head.

 

Zero Fade

A zero fade is one of the shortest possible haircuts; the hair is cut down to the minimal length possible. There is usually still a slight shadow, so it is not a completely clean shaved look. Unlike skin fades, this style leaves a stubble of hair still visible.